how it's done
the making of a trumpet from in holly
1. The starting point, an exceptionally large butt of holly.
2. The crotch of the tree where the wildest grain is to be found
3. A length of the butt cut from the crotch wood
4. The block cut through its length.
This cut surface will be the top surface of the trumpet form.
5. Having trimmed up the block with the chainsaw,
it is then mounted on a faceplate on the lathe.
6. The vertical dark stain on the wall is caused by the sap
flying out of the spinning block wood. It can sometimes
feel as though I'm standing under a shower!
7. Roughly cut to shape, a small spigot is turned on the base
of what will be the foot in order to hold the work
during the next phase.
8. The block has been reaffixed on the lathe
and is now held just by the chuck gripping the spigot.
The underside (the right hand face in this image)
is then cut to the 'right' shape.
9. With the right hand face 'finished', the process begins
of cutting away the waste to achieve the final
uniform wall thickness.
10. Another view at the same stage as the previous image,
showing how the 40 watt light shines through 3mm thick holly.
As much thickness as possible is retained for as long as
possible in order to keep the piece stable.
It tends to get a bit "wobbly" as the waste is removed.
11. The finished shape, showing the uniformity
of light showing through the wood which
indicates the uniform thickness.
12. The description for this is as 11.
The light shining through is so impressive!
All that's left to do is cut away the spigot
on the foot and the piece is finished —
apart from sanding that is!
13. The finished piece is left to dry.
14. After 24 hours slight distortion is noticeable.
15. 36 hours after turning the distortion is becoming interesting.
16. After 72 hours the distortion is happening so rapidly
that I am concerned that the piece will split!
17. Another day and it still keeps moving.
18. One week after turning, the piece has reached its final form.
This is very fast, sometimes it takes up to 4 to 6
weeks to reach its final form.
19. A sycamore trumpet form with incised 'crease',
cut in half to show the uniform wall thickness which it is
necessary to achieve in all my pieces.
This piece is dry but has not been sanded.